Teaching A Boxer Heel

Start training your boxer when it is young and more easily controlled.

The boxer is a large working breed, related to most "bulldog" types of dogs of European heritage. Those relatives include the Tibetan mastiff, Dogue de Bordeaux and English bulldog, so it should come as no surprise that the boxer is a powerful, headstrong breed. Add in the terrier influence, introduced from English dogs in its development, and the boxer becomes a dog vitally in need of basic obedience training. Boxers should be taught sit, lie down, come when called, walk on a loose leash and heel.

Know Your Dog's Health Status

Before training your dog, be aware of any health issues that might interfere with its education. Boxers are prone to heart disease and hip dysplasia, even as young dogs. Both of these conditions may limit a dog's training sessions. In addition, boxers are brachycephalic, meaning they have rounded heads with short muzzles. As a result, your boxer should not be trained in extremely hot weather or exert itself for long periods. Bring your boxer to your vet for an exam before starting any obedience training, just to be aware of any limitations your dog might have.

Figure Out What Interests Your Dog

Some dogs are food driven, while others are not. It is futile to attempt to use a food reward on a prey-driven boxer -- and vice versa. Understanding what makes your boxer "tick" will help you make training sessions more enjoyable for both of you. Jack and Wendy Volhard have created a free personality profile tool for dogs (see Resources). Boxers are strong-willed and independent dogs. Tools such as this one can reduce stress on you and your dog.

Train for a Loose Lead

Boxers are large and powerful dogs, so it is important to teach them control rather than starting with a more refined exercise, such as "heel." Loose leash walking involves stopping any forward motion whenever your dog pulls the leash tight, followed by praising your dog if it comes next to your side and waits for directions. You should walk only in the direction you wish to walk -- never defer to your dog's desires -- and only when the leash has slack in it. Expect your dog to take just a few steps with a loose leash at first, but praise the dog or click and treat for this effort. You can increase the number of steps you take gradually before rewarding your dog as your dog becomes more comfortable with the exercise. Eventually the dog will understand what you want it to do. It doesn't matter which side your dog walks on, or even if it chooses a side at all, as long as it walks in the same direction as you and leaves slack in the leash. After a few practice sessions, your dog should be skilled enough at loose leash walking to introduce the idea of heeling.

Teaching the Initial Heel Position

Teaching the "heel" exercise requires that your dog be under control on the leash. Unlike loose leash walking, "heel" is a formal exercise not intended for a pleasure walk. Your dog must be able to remain close to you on your left side, keep its shoulder in line with your left knee, sit when you stop walking and start walking each time you step forward. Teaching your dog to remain close to you and on your left side is not difficult if you have built a loose leash walking foundation: your dog is used to keeping the leash slack and coming back to check in with you. Build on this foundation by holding your leash in your right hand and giving your dog treats only from your left hand. Walk forward for a few steps, praising or clicking and treating your dog as it takes a few steps near the heel position by your left side. Getting your dog close to you will become self-rewarding, as your dog will come in close to you for a treat.

Improve your Dog's Position

As your dog improves with walking in approximate heel position, praise or click and treat your dog only as its shoulder grows closer to heel position. As with loose leash walking, expect your dog to take just a few steps in its improved position at first. Alternate working on improving the dog's position and increasing the number of steps in which the dog successfully maintains its position until your dog is able to walk in a straight line for at least 20 feet, then introduce left and right turns. As your dog moves into and maintains the "heel" position, with its right shoulder at your left knee, introduce the command "heel." Try not to jerk on your dog's leash to correct its position. Pat your leg to bring your boxer closer to your side or forward from lagging behind. Make a sudden direction change to prevent the dog from forging ahead.

Introduce the Automatic Sit

Cue your dog to the idea that you will be stopping by gradually slowing your pace, starting approximately three steps before coming to a complete halt. If your dog already knows the word "sit," give it the sit command when you come to a complete stop. If it does not know the command, come to a stop, pull up with the leash in your right hand and push down on your boxer's rear. When your dog's rear is about to hit the ground, say "sit" and give it a treat. When your dog begins to sit automatically on its own, begin asking it to sit closer to your left side and sit more quickly before giving praise and a treat.

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