Monday, July 8, 2013

Homemade Septic Tanks

Concrete Construction


If you are a do-it-yourself person, building a homemade septic tank should not be a major ordeal. While the work will be somewhat strenuous and dirty, there is nothing involved which will require any specialized skill sets or specialized equipment. You will need patience and a strong back.


Preparing the Site


The septic tank will be constructed in place so the hole must be dug first. If installing a pre-formed tank, the hole needs to be only slightly larger than the tank to allow for installation. When constructing a tank, you will want to dig the hole slightly wider and longer to allow for working room once the tank construction begins. You will also need to watch the soil condition and make allowances for sandy or wet soil. Holes and trenches can collapse which can result in a serious safety situation. If you have loose soil, it may be necessary to reinforce the walls of the hole while you are working. This can be done with heavy plywood braced with 4 by 4-inch posts. Don't take chances; be safe and take all precautions necessary.


Pouring the Base


Build a form for the base of the tank. The base will need to be a minimum of 4 inches thick so you can use 2 by 4's for the framing. A 2 by 4 is actually only 3 1/2 inches tall so you will need to dig down slightly inside the frame to allow for another 1/2 inch of thickness. Make certain the frame is both level and square or you will encounter major problems later in the construction process. While it is optional, it is advisable to lay screen or re-bar inside the frames prior to pouring any concrete. This will reinforce the concrete and help prevent cracking as a result of the weight.


Once the frame is in place and securely anchored, pour in the concrete. Smooth the concrete used trowels or other devices, keeping it as level and smooth as possible. While the concrete is still wet, lay your first row of concrete blocks just inside the 2 by 4 frame. This will allow for a good deal of space between the floor and the walls. Work quickly to be certain all blocks are laid before the concrete can set. Continually check the blocks to be certain they remain level and square. This will be the foundation for the remainder of the tank and must be done properly.


Build the Walls


Concrete Blocks


Once the floor has had time to set, begin adding layers of bricks. Offset each layer from the previous row to increase the strength of the wall. Continue to add layers until the tank has reached the desired height. With the walls in place, carefully feed pieces of re-bar down through the openings in the blocks. Use a piece of re-bar in every other block around the full perimeter of the tank. This will add strength to the other walls once you complete the construction. Be certain to leave a hole at each end of the tank for pipe access. These holes should be located approximately one foot from the top of the tank and should be capable of accommodating a 4-inch PVC pipe.


Constructing the Top


Constructing the lid to the tank is the most complex portion of the project. You will need to lay 3/4-inch plywood inside the top row of blocks. In the center of this plywood, cut out an area for the access hatch. Support the plywood with several 4 by 4-inch beams placed inside the tank. Construct a frame around the hatch opening as well as around the top of the walls. Use 2 by 8-inch planks set against the outside of the wall. Allow 4 inches of the plank to protrude above the top block to form a lip around the entire tank. This will be your form for the tank lid. Lay screen or re-bar within the form for added strength. Once the form is complete and secure, begin pouring the concrete. Allow the concrete to flow down and fill the concrete blocks before filling the lid form. This will make the tank much stronger and more water tight. Smooth the concrete and, once it has set, remove the framework. You now need only to construct a hatch for the opening and the tank is complete. Connect your piping, back-fill the hole and your septic tank is functional.









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