The chain link fence is one of the most popular varieties of fencing for many applications. It is durable, affordable, weather resistant and moderately easy to install for someone with basic skills.
Planning
Contact your city zoning board to verify that your planned fence will conform to zoning laws, and determine if any special building permits are needed. Ensure that there are no easements on the property from all utility companies. Contact your local authorities to establish the depth you will need to drill the post holes based on soil and weather conditions in your area. Draw your entire layout on graphing paper using a straightedge in advance, to approximate the amount of fencing you will require.
Installation
Use a sledgehammer to drive wooden stakes into the ground at each corner, and attach masonry guide string between the stakes. This masonry string will be used as a guide to align your fence to be perfectly straight. Ensure that the planned area for the fence does not cross over any part of your property line and there are no obstructions in the way.
The posts used for the corners and gate ends are called terminal posts, and these will be installed first. At the locations for the terminal posts, use a power auger to drill eight-inch diameter holes into the ground to the depth mandated by your municipal zoning laws. Place a terminal post in each hole and set it so that it is two inches higher than the height of the fence fabric. Use a level to ensure that each terminal post is plumb, and fill the hole with pre-mixed quick-setting concrete, leaving three inches of space empty at the top of the hole. Allow 24 hours for the concrete to completely set.
The posts used for supporting the fence fabric along the perimeter are called line posts. Line posts need to be installed every 10 feet and set two inches lower than the height of the fence fabric. Use the power auger to drill eight-inch diameter holes along your masonry guide line every 10 feet. Insert the line poles to the correct height and use a level to verify that they are plumb. Fill every hole with pre-mixed quick-setting concrete and again leave three inches of space empty at the top of every hole. Allow 24 hours for the concrete to completely set. Backfill every hole with topsoil until it is flush with the ground.
Use the manufacturer's hardware to attach loop caps to the top of each line post, and slide a top rail through each loop. Cut the top rail so that it butts up against the terminal posts and fits into the rail end cups. Continue installing the top rail along the entire perimeter and you will have completed the skeleton for the fence. Use a hammer to pound the top caps onto the top of the terminal posts to prevent rainwater from entering.
Slide a tensioning rod through the end of the fence fabric and attach the tensioning rod to a terminal post using three tensioning bands positioned at the top, middle and bottom. Pull the fence tight along the skeleton and as you pass each line post fasten it by twisting tension wire around it with pliers. Continue fastening the fence fabric to line posts around the entire perimeter. Attach the fence fabric to the top rail using tension wire placed every five feet.
For the gate, install the male hinges to the left gate post, and hang the top hinge with the pin pointing down and the bottom hinge with its pin pointing up. Set the gate in place and align the top of the gate with the top of the fence. Adjust and oil the hinges to allow the gate to swing freely. Install a gate latch directly on to the gate door itself.
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